Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: An Overview Guide and Practical Tips

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the world's best-known long-distance walks. It circles the Mont Blanc massif through three countries — France, Italy and Switzerland — on a route of roughly 105 miles (170 km) with around 33,000 feet (10,000 m) of cumulative ascent. Hikers cross high passes, descend into green valleys and spend nights in mountain refuges, village hotels and campgrounds.

It is a demanding trek, but unlike more rugged routes such as the GR20 in Corsica, the TMB passes through villages often enough that hikers can resupply, shorten days or leave the trail by bus if needed.

Route overview

Traditionally the TMB starts at Les Houches near Chamonix and is walked counterclockwise, but it can be started at any point on the loop and walked in either direction. A common pattern is:

• France: Les Houches, Les Contamines and over the Col du Bonhomme area to Les Chapieux.
• Italy: over the Col de la Seigne into the Val Veny and Courmayeur, then along the balcony paths of the Val Ferret.
• Switzerland: over the Grand Col Ferret into the Swiss Val Ferret, through La Fouly and Champex, then over the Fenêtre d'Arpette or the gentler Bovine variant toward Trient.
• Back to France: via the Col de Balme and the balcony trails above the Chamonix valley.

Most hikers take 10 to 11 days. Fast, experienced trekkers sometimes complete it in fewer, and many people walk sections over several trips. There are several variants, some of which are significantly more exposed or strenuous than the main route.

When to go

The main hiking season runs from about mid-June to mid-September, when most refuges are open. Early in the season, snow can linger on high passes such as the Col de la Seigne and the Fenêtre d'Arpette, making sections slippery or dangerous without suitable equipment. July and August are the busiest months. September is quieter but some refuges begin to close and days are shorter.

Where to sleep

Accommodation ranges from mountain refuges with dormitories and shared meals to gîtes, small hotels and campgrounds in valley villages. Refuges fill up quickly in July and August, and booking ahead is usually essential. Wild camping rules differ between France, Italy and Switzerland and between municipalities; check the rules for each section rather than assuming it is allowed.

Wildlife along the TMB

The TMB passes through prime Alpine habitat. Marmots whistle from meadows in summer, chamois pick their way across steep slopes, and Alpine ibex are often seen on rocky ground near the higher passes. Golden eagles patrol the ridges, and bearded vultures, reintroduced to the Alps after being driven out in the past, are an occasional and memorable sight.

Ibex in particular can seem unafraid of hikers. Give them plenty of space, never feed them and do not approach for photos. Our guide to watching wildlife ethically explains why food from people harms wild animals.

Other big walks

If the TMB whets your appetite, compare it with the much rougher GR20 or browse our round-up of must-visit mountains in Europe.

References

• Autour du Mont-Blanc — official Tour du Mont Blanc refuge information and booking
• Espace Mont-Blanc — cross-border cooperation for the Mont Blanc area
• Chamonix-Mont-Blanc official tourism site
• Valais/Wallis Promotion — official tourism site for the Swiss Valais
• Météo-France — Mountain weather
• Leave No Trace — The Seven Principles